A Bubbly Trio

alfred_gratien_brutA triplet of non-vintage Champagnes, ringing in between $30 and $40, will grace the Chairman’s Selection lineup for the winter, pouring added class into your holiday gifting, cellaring or mealtime consumption. All are slated for limited distribution in the state.

Already in stores, the Alfred Gratien Brut Classique is redolent with nuttiness. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, it presses fleshy pear flavors against the firm citric core that comes off rather like lemonade. Toasty and slightly austere with a healthy dose of rockiness, there’s good complexity and enough stuffing to age several years. 12.5% alcohol by volume.

Mostly Pinot Noir, with a dime of Chardonnay tossed in, the Decelle Brut is my on-deck companion to a plateful of shimmering East Coast oysters. The musky nose leads to a bright quaff of light cherry that twists around a modestly green-bitter bite. The overall effect, though, is fresh and vibrant, full of delicious and lingering fruit. Sharp, pretty and smooth. 12% ABV.

Slightly funky on the nose, the rich Herbert Beaufort Brut Bouzy Grand Cru Carte d’Or is the fruitiest of the bunch, thanks to its makers’ deference to Pinot Noir character. Flush with intriguing flavors, from green apple to stone fruit, it brings satisfying structure, complexity and a medium finish. Slight floral notes, too. 12% ABV. Pending arrival; code 33675.