Pouring for a Potential Turkey

Thanksgiving: Family, sharing, togetherness. Celebration. Complexity. Stress of failure.

Proper. Wines. Are. Key.

For the contributor, there’s likely no more humbling, puzzling test than the Big November Food Event we’ve built up in books, family traditions, mass media – the lore of our collective cookingdom. Likely akin to some of you, I can’t claim to anything but steering wide of serious culinary pursuits, yet I’ve enjoyed and endured nearly half a hundred of these supermeals and know that the trickiness of pairing the worthiest wines twists thinking without fail. Trying to crack that riddle, though – that’s where the fun is.

It’s unproductive to think of a “right” approach so let’s toss out the concept of perfection and consider a slew of wines that could bring added enjoyment to the complicated food intersection happening on a Thanksgiving table near you.

Following are notes from wines I’ve sampled recently, some potential Turkey Day pours to consider while pursuing the evasive formula for your feast. If all else fails, we have the wine.

WHITE

Allegro Vineyards Chardonnay 2012 ($16.99)
A well-crafted Penna. effort from the able hands of Carl Helrich, known not only for his longstanding Allegro output but for the steady guidance of early Karamoor vintages. Mineral framing, round and ripe fruit, light creaminess from the barrel. Chalk one up for the locals.

Clarendelle Blanc 2011 ($21.99)
A juicy entry from the producer of Bordeaux’s fabulously elite Chateau Haut-Brion, bursting with ripe peach. Primarily Semillon with a dose of Sauvignon Blanc to deliver acidic bite, it’s a bright and sharp quaff with viscous body that could find purchase in the heart of the meal. Great mouth-feel, herbal and mineral highlights and a drying finish.

Domaine Ehrhart Gewurztraminer Herrenweg 2012  ($14.99)
Quintessential Alsatian package of clean, pure flavors with balanced, fruit-driven acidity. Rich and spicy, refreshingly off-dry. For a Chairman’s Selection price of $15, it could even make Aunt Maude’s scorched bird edible.

Dr. Konstantin Frank Semi-Dry Riesling 2012
At first impression, this is semi-sweet rather than -dry. Congenial and uplifting nose, pale yellow in color. A burst of white peach on the palate to start, followed by a leaner, drier finish. More than semi-sugar in this wine. Ripe, downright. Very buoyant, though, and a fine thought-starter for the table. 2010 vintage available in PA for $15.99.

Joseph Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Chardonnay 2012
A light bodied screw-top Chard that’s taut, alive and flavorful, showing lean fruit, pinpoint focus and a lingering and mouthwatering finish. A beautifully aromatic, table-ready white blended with grapes from Chablis, Cote d’Or and Maconnais. For $17.29 as Special Liquor Order (SLO) from the PLCB, code 534403. 

Lieb Pinot Blanc 2012 ($17.99)
Sly, sweet-spicy-floral aromas suggest a European style aromatic white primed for food. This complex, semi-dry beauty picks up cleanly where its standout predecessor left off. The balance of the wine is striking, pitting expressive citrus, pear and tropical flavors against the structure provided by a core of acidity, bite and mineral reinforcement. As more time in the air and warmth set in, the expressiveness builds wonderfully. Suited for spice, poultry and robust seafood dishes.

Sheldrake Point Gewurztraminer 2012 ($17.99)
Another high accomplishment from this highly accomplished Finger Lakes producer. Intensely fragrant and floral, flush with rose petal, tropical fruit, spice and minerality. Despite a minor deficit of acid and viscosity, the wine’s freshness and focused flavors are deft with poultry and foods with bite.

Sparkman Cellars Apparition 2012 ($23.99)
A full-bodied, Rhone-style white blend from Washington State, concentrated and rich, with the fortitude to take on the table. Opens with a nose of iron/blood and meaty (was that hot dog flavor?) notions that eventually blow off, revealing smooth flavors of stone fruit and pear, with buttery highlights.

Truchard Roussanne 2012
Flush with ripe, lush fruit. Guided by acidity, providing outstanding structure and finish. Pear, creme brûlée, starfruit, lemon, herbs, Lord knows what else. Complex, extremely well made. A flavor profile that may not appeal to all but a match for turkey, fish and dishes with spice. 2011 available in PA stores for $21,99, 2012 for $24.29 as SLO – code 537314.

ROSÉ

Clarendelle Rosé Bordeaux 2011 ($16.99)
An entry-level Bordeaux blush that commands attention. More than three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon (with Merlot in the balance), it’s no fading fleur. At once forceful and floral, it has a focused, vibrant nose, tannic form, intense color and bigger-bodied presentation. It will stand firm against strong cheese, birds and even beefier entrees.

RED

Dr. Konstantin Frank Pinot Noir Old Vines 2011 ($21.99)
Old vines bring expressive, fuller fruit to this bright and bird-ready Pinot. Depth, too, with some fine tannic intensity making it slightly chewy. Cranberry, cherry, earthiness and lighter bodied. Demerit for its vanilla-oakiness.

Joseph Drouhin Laforet Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2011 ($11.49)
Pretty cranberry juice-red and lighter in body, featuring an upfront pungency that pierces the olfactory and softens with time. Light acidity blends with red fruit and cinnamon. Bright, alive, with fine tannins that work the tongue during the sustained, cherry-bright finish. Bargain-priced (currently on sale) and screw-capped.

Ridge Zinfandel Ponzo Vineyard 2009 ($27.99)
You’ll spend a little more but as good a Zin as I’ve had in some time. Bold nose, rich and concentrated color. Supple with acidic balance. While flavorful, contained and restrained. Earth, bell pepper, dark berries, spice. Very well crafted.

Truchard Pinot Noir Carneros 2011 ($27.99)
A pilgrim Pinot – hearty, rich and concentrated as hell. Curious hints of coffee. Fine, almost delicate cherry fruit emerges with an hour of air exposure. Intensely flavored and focused with tannic dust and a finish that goes forever. Almost a meal.

Saint Cosme Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge 2012 ($14.99)
A French Syrah at the right price. Nose filling, expansive flavors that are boldly smoky, spice-laden and flush with raspberry-cranberry juiciness. Concentrated and unequivocal, the St. Cosme will lean into a variety of foods. Well framed by the mineral fortitude of its geographic origin. A commendable red Rhone.

Frank Cipparone contributed to this post.