Sheldrake Point Dry Riesling Finger Lakes 2011

Squirreled away in the soaring achievements shaping and elevating our daily lives like electricity, penicillin, pasteurization and others, wine drawn from the noble Riesling grape has to be considered as one of humankind’s all-time feats. Many arrive at this realization at some point along the line, likely with the accumulation of maturity and wisdom. And discriminating taste.

Frowning at these statements? There’s still hope, my friend.

Thankfully, the unbound greatness of Riesling has begun to receive the reverence it’s due over the preceding years, in holiday-like fashion. Spanning the full summer (June 21 to September 21), multiple U.S. locales and a sprinkling of international ones, the Summer of Riesling is the fermented equivalent to the assault on the Ardennes forest. Resistance is futile.

Philadelphia is a torch carrier for the annual event, further confirming the City of Brotherly Love’s essence as a bona fide gastro-scene. Residents and visitors will have months to indulge and revel in selections from various stations of the Riesling spectrum – Germany, Austria, France, the US and perhaps elsewhere. As participants, Philly restos a. kitchen, Tashan and Tria (others may be added) will keep the bottles chilled as the days heat up.

But there’s really no need to hold off or drop extra ducats on restaurant markups. Mercifully, the PLCB has upped its Riesling representation in recent weeks. For those paying attention, the selection of wines from the Finger Lakes has multiplied to include labels from Lamoreaux Landing, Sheldrake Point and Silver Thread.

To get right to it, the Sheldrake Point Dry Riesling Finger Lakes 2011 is a good point of entry. Its upfront draw is a sugary-rich nose of a late season Riesling, yet it’s not close to being syrupy. Instead, a lean, distinct grapefruit flavor profile dominates – with a drop of petrol for added intrigue – supported by solid mineral structure, lively acidity and a medium-length finish. The wine’s vivacity and sly complexity should keep you reaching back for more, whether sipping into the evening or providing compliment to seafood and chicken dishes. For $16.99, this Finger Lakes standout gets the summer love flowing. 89-91