Bottles and Barbecue

A recent rainy night in Philadelphia brought the PA Vine Co crew together at Barbacoa in Ardmore, a brisk barbecue joint that welcomes BYO business. Our kind of place.

The three of us – Mike, Jeff and Jeff – were joined by Frank Cipparone, PAVC’s newest writer, as well as, it became abundantly clear, a proud South Philadelphian with an encyclopedic mind for Philly sports history and local lore.

Over heaps of pulled pork, brisket, Peruvian-style chicken and ribs, we wisecracked and turned over topics ranging from Sideways and Bart Giamatti to our uneven opinions of Marc Vetri’s restaurants. And, of course, wine.

Here’s a take on the bottles from our table:

Jeff A: Knowing it would be an evening of tangy, slightly spicy meats – and I especially had my eye on a plate of pulled pork – I decided to bring a bottle from the Southern Rhone. I was looking for something that had backbone but wasn’t overly big and had some bite. I went with The Vac by Arnoux 2009, a proprietary blend from the Vacqueyras appellation available for $22.99 through the PLCB. The wine took some time to open up (give it an hour decant) but was serviceable for the meal. My guess is it’s predominantly Grenache because it opened with a burst of classic bright red fruit, followed by low-key tannins, smokiness and a pinch of earth. It left me wanting more, though. The flush of flavor dropped off quickly, making for a disappointing finish. I know Mike found it thin (I didn’t disagree) and Jeff reckoned it was better suited for a skirt steak. If I paid $15-$17, which is the price in most areas outside PA, I suppose I’d be more forgiving, but the flirty come-on of The Vac proved to be mostly tease. You can do better for the price. 85-87

Mike: When considering the cuisine, I too immediately thought of the Rhone (as well as South America, of course). I was originally going to bring a Gigondas or Chateauneuf, but when Jeff mentioned he had selected a Vacqueyras, I figured I’d go Northern Rhone instead, as a point of comparison, which led me to the 2008 Domaine Durand Cornas Empreintes (a $19.99 Chairman’s Selection in PA). Though wines from this region tend to be more elegant than those of the Southern Rhone, Syrah’s tannins figured to be a good match for the meat. Cornas, being the southernmost region in the north, also delivers more ripeness than most. This particular one has good fruit, with some spiciness and earth, and of course a touch of that classic Syrah bacony flavor. Tannins are there, but are nice and smooth. Though this wine didn’t blow me away, it was perhaps my favorite of the night due to its supreme balance. When this first came to PA it was $30, and a dubious value. At $20, however, a solid choice. 88-90

Jeff K: I, too, considered the cuisine and I thought of several different bottles in my cellar that would likely pair famously. One of the other writers here at PA Vine Co who shall go unnamed (Mike) “convinced” me to make a selection from wines that are currently available in the Commonwealth. I decided to go with the Trentadue La Storia Merlot 2010 (another $19.99 Chairman’s Selection) for a couple of reasons, despite the fact that Merlot would likely be no one’s “ideal” pairing for spicy barbecue. First, I have had several Trentadue wines over the years and they always bring the fruit. Second, I am currently reading Vertical, the sequel to the book Sideways (if you saw the film you no doubt remember Miles’ aversion to the variety). Well, the book is a bit over the top, so I bought a Sonoma Merlot in protest. As for the wine, I was right – it brings the fruit in bunches. Dark fruit, cherries, pomegranates – it is practically a whole fruit cake worth of fruit. There is some dark chocolate and a bit of anise thrown in as well. It is a bit high on the alcohol side, but still balanced. This is certainly not my type of wine, but I thought it was rather fun. The table seemed to be in agreement that this would be an outstanding choice for the holidays – just about anyone who enjoys wine, regardless of their “expertise” would find something to enjoy here and, at $20, it pleases the budget. 88-90

Frank: Being the new guy at the table, I wasn’t going to show up with an ’87 Mascarello Barolo or any vintage of Opus One at a barbecue joint. Knowing Mike’s affinity for lesser-known Italian varietals, however, I chose a Tedeschi Corasco 2009 from the Veneto region. Those who drink Valpolicella or Amarone would recognize the primary grape in this proprietary blend – Corvina, “the little crow,” with its delicate aroma and bitter cherry flavors. Here, it is partnered with Refosco’s plummy, peppery raspberry and almond essence and the dry, austere texture and mouthfeel of Raboso. There’s a noticeable aftertaste of liquory berries and raisins from a brief appassimento of the grapes that allows them to partially dry out before fermentation, thus concentrating their natural sugars to create a perception of enhanced ripeness. Was it the wine of the evening? Probably not. But at a Chairman’s Selection tag of $12.99 you can afford to indulge your inner Magellan without breaking your wine budget. 87-89