Rosé paired with Crispy Skin Dorade

Welcome to a new article series at PAVC – guest pairings! We’re asking local chefs, somms, and other wine personalities to serve up a special pairing of their design, and tell us why they love it. Got your own to share? Tell us about it.

Restaurant Cerise is set to open in Bryn Mawr, PA (1011 W. Lancaster Ave) this September as a European-style bistro featuring dishes from France, Spain, and the Mediterranean (but none of that “fusion confusion”, says Ben Thomas, the chef/owner). Thomas, who’s spent time on the line in Paris, came to PA for a job opportunity at Le Bec-Fin. He’s also worked at Philly’s Lacroix at the Rittenhouse and the highly-lauded Sycamore in Lansdowne. So, although Cerise will be a more casual BYOB, the fine-dining chops speak for themselves. Cerise will feature a prix fixe menu ($35 Weds & Sun/$47 Thu-Sat) with four courses and 5-6 options for each, and they’ll also offer a Euro-style brunch on weekends. More importantly for us, Thomas and wife Elena plan to include wine recommendations via their website, specifically focused on the selection at the premium store just down the street (which happens to be one of the better stores in the area).

The Pairing:

As Ben and I (Elena) sat discussing this piece on our Fairmount roof deck one 90-some degree evening recently, we both immediately agreed that we wanted to pair a Rosé. A historically maligned wine in the U.S., we both fell for Rosé while living in France, where we spent time in Nice and Provence. The French Rosés have none of the cloying sweetness that has given them a bad name in the states, but instead deliver a fresh tartness that is perfect for warmer weather and the simple, elegant food found on the Mediterranean coast. Ben is classically trained in French cooking, and worked in a bistro in Paris while we were there, so here he’s going back to his roots. All the ingredients come from the same regions of southern France where our favorite Rosés are found – Dorade is native to the south coasts of Spain and France, and preserved lemons and piquillo peppers are staples in the region.

Pan-seared fish and a fresh salad are light summery dishes. Though the aioli might seem heavy, it will actually serve to lighten the whole dish as it’s eaten. What we love about this pairing is that the citrus in the vinaigrette and aioli highlight the crisp and fruit notes of the Rosé, which makes the whole meal more refreshing. And of course, we love that it reminds us of sitting on a little balcony with a glass of Rosé overlooking the bustling market in Nice – just the thing for a warm summer evening!

In PLCB stores now, we’d suggest the 2012 Les Domaniers, Selection Ott (appellation Côtes de Provence Contrôlée), which retails for $21.99. Editor’s note:

For additional suggestions, view our recent article on locally-available Roses.

The Recipe:

Crispy Skin Dorade
Frisee Salad with Radish, Crispy Potato, Piquillo Pepper, and Preserved Lemon Vinaigrette
Tarragon Aioli
Serves 4

To make the Aioli:

1 egg
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 lemon, zested and juiced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch tarragon
salt & pepper

1. In a 1-quart container, combine egg, oils, half of the lemon zest & juice, garlic, about ½ teaspoon salt, and fresh ground pepper.
2. Place an immersion blender into the bottom and pulse. In a few seconds, you will have aioli. NOTE: you can also use a food processor, but I prefer the immersion blender.
3. Add more salt and lemon juice to taste.
4. Chop the tarragon leaves and stir into the aioli. Chill until ready to use.

To Make the Vinaigrette:

1 preserved lemon, cut into a few pieces
3 Tbsp white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
1 small shallot (or ½ of medium shallot)
2/3 extra virgin olive oil (approx)
salt & pepper

1. In a blender, add preserved lemon, vinegar, mustard, shallot, and fresh ground pepper. You probably will not need salt, as the lemon should be salty enough. Blend until well pureed.
2. With the blender on, slowly pour extra virgin olive oil until the vinaigrette has the proper consistency; probably about 2/3 cup. Taste for seasoning.

To Make the Fish and Salad:

4 6oz dorade filets, skin on
2 heads frisee lettuce
1 bunch radishes
2 yukon gold potatoes, peeled
1 8oz jar/tin piquillo peppers
1 bunch chives
1 sprig thyme
Salt and Pepper

1. Dice potato into 1/3-inch cubes. Store in cold water for 20 minutes to remove some starch.
2. Cut peppers into bite-size strips.
3. Slice radishes into thin rounds and reserve in cold water until ready to use. (A mandolin works best for this.)
4. Use scissors (or a knife) to snip chives into 2-inch pieces.
5. Clean frisee. Cut off root and darker green ends of leaves and discard. (You only want to use white and light yellow parts.) For larger frisee, you may need to cut into smaller pieces.
6. Drain potatoes and dry well.
7. Heat cast iron pan over medium high heat. Add 2-3 Tbsp vegetable oil to pan. (Oil should be hot enough that the oil is rippling, but not smoking.)
8. Add potatoes, making sure they are in one layer. Add whole sprig of thyme, quickly coat them in oil, and LEAVE THEM ALONE. Do not shake pan as this can rip them apart. Let them brown on one side for 3-4 minutes, then stir them around a bit. They should cook in about 10 minutes. The outside should be crispy, and the middle should be very soft.
9. Drain onto paper towels, remove thyme, and immediately season with salt.
10. Wipe out pan and return to medium heat. Add 2 Tbsp vegetable oil. Dry off fish filets with paper towels. Season skin side with salt and gently place fish skin side down into pan. The fish may curl up, so just use a spatula to gently press, making sure the entire skin surface is touching the pan. Once all the filets are in the pan (don’t overcrowd them!), season the flesh side with salt and pepper. The fish will cook in this position for 3-4 minutes, depending on thickness.
11. While the fish cooks, use a large bowl to toss together the frisee, radish, peppers, crispy potatoes, a few Tbsp of vinaigrette, salt & pepper (NOTE: the salad may not need salt & pepper depending on the saltiness of your preserved lemon).
12. Use a spatula to gently flip the fish over. If the skin is sticking to the pan, the fish is not ready to be flipped (or your pan was not hot enough). Once the fish is flipped over, it will cook for another 2-3 minutes. Remove to a paper towel-lined plate.
13. Spoon 1-2 Tbsp aioli onto one side of each diner’s plate. Place a filet on the plate so it overlaps a small part of the aioli. Mix the salad again and place it so that some will cover the empty part of the plate and some will tumble off one side of the fish.

Voila!