North Fork Wine Notes

This is page 2 of our North Fork Tasting Notes piece. View page 1.

The majority of notes that follow were recorded in October 2012 during on-site winery tastings. Additional notes were based on subsequent bottle samples in Pennsylvania. Wineries are listed by town, moving east to west. Highlighted wines are my top picks.

SOUTHOLD

MATTEBELLA VINEYARDS:
Mattebella’s tiny tasting cottage is a must for travelers searching for serious North Fork reds. There, beside some quality pours, visitors can bank on lively conversation, music and cheese pairings. Outdoor seating is also available. Website.

Famiglia Red NV. Good bones to this bright and vital wine. Loads of earthiness, plum and cranberry/pomegranate notes, worthy acidity and spice. Just a wee bit of cream. Calls for food to counter its tannic support and tart acidity. Well-structured and guided by fine craftsmanship.

Old World 2007. A hearty, delicious blend. Bright red and ripe fruit, black peppery, earthy. Balanced and low in alcohol. Shrewdly paired with Thanksgiving turkey and other hearty, hearthside dishes.

Chardonnay 2009. Lean and focused, a food-leaning Chardonnay that brings terrific acidity and terroir. Lovers of un-oaked Chard would be at home here.

ONE WOMAN WINES:
The name of Claudia Purita, the singular female in question, was liberally name-checked by many of the winemakers I met. For good reason. Her efforts, particularly in the white realm, are as noteworthy as her singlehanded achievements in the vineyard. Be prepared for a tiny tasting shack with an outdoor tasting/picnic area. Website.

Chardonnay 2008. Pulls off rich oak with finesse. Baked caramel, vanilla, toasty nut and a light, almost green twist on the finish. Compelling and complex wine. A major keeper.

Grüner Veltliner 2011. A factor of the vintage’s weather and growing conditions, this wine is subtle, subtle, subtle. Lovely floral/fruit nose, pale in color. Mellow and balanced in the mouth. Some acidity, smooth, plenty of minerality, delicate green fruit, an OK finish. A food wine.

THE OLD FIELD:
If not a strictly technical definition of their farming techniques, the experience at The Old Field is decidedly organic. The place is earthbound and instantly likeable, with the winery contained in a cramped barn building and fermenting handled outdoors on the grounds. Owner Chris Baiz’s grandmother first purchased the property in 1918 and, in addition to grapes, it has served as home to a multitude of farm animals. A quiet alternative to hubbub of other wineries, complete with chickens underfoot. Website.

Cacklin’ Rose 2010. With a powerfully pretty nose, this easy-drinking Merlot blush is bright and (straw)berry filled, with a touch of green pepper. Oddly, it’s reminiscent of a Cali Pinot Noir flavor profile. Medium acidity and long finish. Versatile with food and imminently drinkable.

Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2009. A buttery-good, toasty-nosed Chard with blessed acidic balance.

Mostly Steel Chardonnay 2010. With pronounced minerality, enveloped in a metallic sheen. Balanced with golden-bright floral flavors, apple.

PECONIC

LENZ WINERY:
A veteran North Forker, Lenz makes the most of its mature vines. Wine club subscribers and restaurant clients have a monopoly on the Old Vines selections but a wink and a smile in the tasting room may get you a pour. If you get a chance, don’t miss the ridiculously delicious – and lil’ bit funky – ‘02 Old Vines Cab. Website.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. With a delightfully modest 12.5% alcohol level, this cold fermented beauty gets a small boost of Merlot to deliver an opulent red with pliant tannins and plenty of cherry.

Chardonnay Old Vines 2008. Clean fruit, a sparing use of oak (described by my hosts as an “oak drive-by”); clean, crisp balance. Representative of the skillful use of malolactic and barrel fermentation applied to multiple, worthy Lenz Chardonnays.

Cuvée Sparkling White 2006. Made wholly from Pinot Noir, this sparkler is long on finish and presents with a complex blend of white cherries and yeasty goodness.

Gewürztraminer 2008. Worth it for the nose alone. Dry but luscious fruit. Perfumed and subtle.

RAPHAEL WINE:
While not a heavenly match for me, Raphael’s 2007 Merlot is a polished, high-end work of art. The arrival of Anthony Nappa in the winemaker seat could mean good things for future releases. Website.

First Label Merlot 2007. Rich in aroma and flavor, an excellent wine that blends notes of dark berries, chocolate and tobacco. Imbued by oak, boasting dark fruit (blueberry) and bold tannins.

Riesling 2011. A difficult grape to grow on Long Island but the effort paid off here. A bright nose, crisp and fruity with a dry finish.

WINEMAKER STUDIO:
Ideal for weekend evening sipping with friends, the Studio represents six winemakers and seven brands. Allowing area winemakers to moonlight delivers interesting one-off experiments. Website.

Anthony Nappa Dieci 2010. The slightly redundant moniker aside (dieci is “ten” in Italian; 2010, get it?), this deep red blend (44% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc) is a subtly spicy showcase of an apex vintage. With a pleasantly fruity nose medium body and length, the Merlot adds roundness and depth of flavor to offset the slight green notes. Dark fruit, leather, earth and a pinch of spice from the Cab Franc. Could likely stand to age another year or two.

Anthony Nappa Gewürztraminer Spezia 2010. Made from botrytis-infected grapes, this dry fermented effort is intense and aromatic. Lovely. deep, golden hue; spicy and intensely fruit-filled on the palate. (Unfortunately sold out but a validation of the Studio’s experimental bent.)

CUTCHOGUE

BEDELL CELLARS:
Bedell represents the top of the North Fork food chain. Well-funded and fancy with wines that impress as technically precise, it could be mistaken for a Napa transplant. All the same, the wines are unquestionably rich, delicious and abundantly appealing. Website.

Cabernet Franc 2010. Concentrated and mellow, with deep black fruit, leather. Full and rich. An outstanding match for duck at the North Fork Table.

Cabernet Franc 2011. Smooth and round, with elegance unexpected from a cool climate red. Shockingly low 11.2% alcohol.

Gallery 2010. A lush and expansive blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Explosive and opulent flavors, especially the pungent stone fruit from the Viognier, coat the mouth liberally. Indulgent wine termpered by a mix of oak and steel fermentation. In a word, outstanding.

Musee 2008. Made to age, this immense and tannic wine was pleasingly spicy. An intense beauty. Nearly sold old when I visited, watch for the 2010 bottling and the lofty price tag.

Taste Red 2010. Richly hued, good acidity and structure. Merlot-dominant for this vintage (with Syrah, Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and Malbec); lush, very round and light vanilla on the finish. Approachable.

Taste White 2011. Zippy, with a big-time petrol nose. Fruity but countered by acidity and a leanness defined by a metallic core. Wine well suited for oysters.

MCCALL WINES:
Russ McCall & co. concentrate on a grape, Pinot Noir, that most on the Fork won’t touch outside of sparkling wine. “It takes a lot of work,” McCall told me. “You’ve got to really pay attention and it has to be your focus every day.” The winery relies on land blessed with “perfect drainage,” and constant thinning of clusters to fight the moldy impact of humidity. Website.

Reserve Merlot 2008. An intriguing, pronounced black pepper profile here, one that McCall claims he didn’t like “at all” on first tasting. A touch of bottle age charmed forth a winner.

Ben’s Blend 2007. Ripples with black fruit, earth and Cab Franc spice. Complex and deep, with underlying tannic support and a bell peppery finish.

Reserve Pinot Noir 2007. Expressive PN. Mature, earthy and luxurious effort. Age-worthy.

PELLEGRINI VINEYARDS:
Known for dry reds, Pellegrini offers a roomy, handsome tasting room and grounds. Impressively tannic wines that can stand up to some sideways time. Website.

Cabernet Franc 2007. Remarkably beautiful nose. Mushroom notes, fruit toward the mid palate that’s very giving, followed by a smooth transfer to a tannic sustain.

Gewurztraminer 2011. Big-time rose petal nose. Rich and concentrated, with lychee and floral on the palate.

Merlot 2005. 100% Merlot. With deep fruit, concentrated blueberry, very grippy. Flavorful and intriguingly tart.

Vintners Pride Encore 2007. A blend boasting minerality, hints of vanilla and a curious mix of licorice and red fruits including cranberry. Smooth.

Vintners Pride Merlot 1997. A gorgeous wine bottled in 1999. Bordeaux nose (with some barnyard), tannins that are holding on and color that hasn’t begun to brick. Could probably go another 3-5 years. $70/bottle.

MATTITUCK

LIEB CELLARS:
No stranger to the PLCB system, Lieb opened a new tasting room in 2012 in a former tractor storage barn to showcase wines that consistently show well with clean, quality fruit and balance. Producer of about 8,000 cases annually, from 62 acres of vines. Website.

Blanc de Blanc 2008. Dry, crisp, a little nutty and toasty, with pear, apple and a touch of caramel creaminess. We drank this bubbly beauty with blackfish from Braun Seafood Co. in Cutchogue, colossally flavorful root veggies from Latham’s farm stand in Orient and rosemary, cilantro and thyme goat cheese from Catapano Dairy Farm. One better than a trifecta.

Bridge Lane Merlot Blanc 2011. No skin contact gives the wine a kind of golden, light pink grapefruit hue. Dry rosé qualities, rounded by a splash of refreshing fruit, vibrancy and good body. Paired smartly with freshly caught striped bass.

Bridge Lane Rosé 2012. Made from 100% Cab Franc. A very attractive, flirty, fresh nose. On the dry side, the wine has an upfront promise of juicy, sweet fruit (strawberry) and some floral notes. Minerality, too. Inviting mid palate that drops off the edge with a tiny green notion. A good warm weather drinker you don’t need to over think. Available through the PLCB.

Cabernet Franc 2007. Aromatic (stinky at first), concentrated, black pepper spice and full of earth. Full bodied with a rich mix of black and red berries, good acidity and length on the finish. A layered, bolder wine that might surprise. One to seek out.

Reserve Merlot 2008. Green, cocoa aromas. Dark, concentrated color. Tight and tannic, may need another year or so to tenderize. Meaty, earthy, black/blue/red berries.

Right Coast Red 2010. It took hours of air (as in, it was hard and austere for the first couple days) and a bowl of pasta with red sauce to bring out the softer side of this Bordeaux-style blend. Mostly Merlot, cut with Cabernet Sauvignon and lesser doses of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec, it shows good promise with its firm tannic structure and pleasant nose. Rewarding, fairly complex and lengthy on the finish. Available through the PLCB.

SHINN ESTATE VINEYARDS:
With an inviting tasting room that’s adjacent to a restored barn housing the winery, Shinn resonates with quality and environmental consciousness. The operation is powered by a solar and wind system, and principals Barbara Shinn and David Page take pride in holistic farming techniques that are highlighted during popular weekend vineyard tours. They also operate the on-premise Farmhouse Inn. Website.

Chardonnay 2011. Balanced, expressive and fruity, showing pear and good body. Lengthy, satisfying finish. Tank fermented, eight months on lees.

Haven 2010. Exceptional blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Served at room temperature, it brings out wonderful toasty caramel flavors. Impressively complex and structured; some creaminess and minerality.

Pinot Blanc 2009: The product of a cool, rainy season. “I am a really, really big fan of this vintage,” said Page, even though they waited into into November to harvest. The payoff: satisfactory sugar and ripened stems bring a lovely, spicy and tannic quality.

Pinot Blanc 2010. A gorgeous wine, rich yet lean/focused with a finish that goes and goes. Notes of pear, beeswax, high acidity. A “natural wine” that’s unfiltered and opaque. Remarkable.

Rosé 2011. A mix that utilizes the extra Cabernet Franc and Merlot grapes harvested for Shinn reds (rather than the maligned saignée style that utilizes some of the just-pressed juice that is bled off in order to concentrate the source red wine). Delicious, bright fruit followed by spice on the finish, good acidity. Spends a day or two on skins, creating what Page calls a “non-wimpy” wine. He’s right. Likely sold out but look for the new release.

ALSO TASTED:
Corey Creek Vineyards Gewürztraminer 2011. A fairly lean and acidic rendering. Tropical fruit, lemony and a touch austere. The product of a difficult vintage, and it shows hints of struggle. Good with roast chicken and root veggies. Corey Creek is owned by Bedell.

Croteaux Rosé Sauvage 2011. Pretty, hyper-colorful Merlot rosé. A versatile food wine, and the ample body and acid can even stand up to pasta and red sauce. Mouth-filling flavors of strawberry, cherry, flowers, a pinch of spice and who knows what else. Terrific.

Paumanauk Chenin Blanc 2011. Slightly stinky nose, which is interesting. Good body, viscosity. Lean and focused with a pucker factor. Acidity on the very long finish. Some may not get past the aroma but a well-made white with loads of minerality that uplifts dinner time. You’ll find yourself reaching back for another pour.

Sherwood House Chardonnay 2010. Subtle is the word for this wine. As in, subtly creamy, acidic, citric, mineral. Imminently pleasurable in its balance and restraint. Medium bodied, medium length on the finish. Subtly great.

Sparkling Pointe Brut Seduction 2002. A beautiful, nutty-baked goods nose for starters. Fine, concentrated bubbles. A mix of flavors including custard, caramel and the requisite bready notes. Good long finish. A nice effort but unsure it merits the elevated price tag.